In the vibrant labyrinthine lanes of Lucknow, an intricate network appears to flourish, consisting of pedal-powered rickshaw conduits, auto-rickshaw operators, and proprietors of chikan boutiques. Their strategic positioning is conspicuous, notably near the iconic Bada Imambara and along the lively Hazratganj thoroughfare.
Their mission? To intercept unsuspecting travelers and redirect them from their intended paths to the adjacent chikan boutiques, all in an effort to augment customer footfall. This symbiotic association ensures drivers receive incentives for adeptly guiding patrons towards these establishments.
In response to mounting grievances regarding this modus operandi, two investigative journalists from HT assumed undercover roles, masquerading as tourists while exploring both the aforementioned locales. To seamlessly blend in, they engaged in dialogue exclusively in Bengali.
Several tourists, whom the journalists engaged with, lamented a bittersweet encounter with the city renowned for its ‘adab’ (courtesy), as they fell prey to this well-organized network.
Artful maneuvers of drivers at Hazratganj
Wandering along the promenade of Janpath Market and Meena Bazaar in Hazratganj, the journalists found themselves persistently pursued by rickshaw operators and auto-rickshaw drivers, extending up to gate no.1 of the nearest Metro station. They were promptly accosted with queries like, “Kahaan jaana hai, chikan market (Where do you want to go, chikan market)?”
When the journalists inquired about potential shopping destinations, a driver interjected, “Aminabad.” Even with minimal probing, the drivers, who also moonlighted as chikan vendors, vociferously extolled the prices of diverse clothing articles available at the boutiques. “Those priced at ₹1,700 can typically be acquired for ₹1,200 there,” one of them disclosed, mentioning a popular chikan showroom in the city with multiple outlets. Upon declining their proposition, the drivers disclosed, in an effort to enhance credibility, “We have a pact with the shop proprietors.”
“In return, the shop proprietors remit some funds that we utilize to procure blankets,” revealed a pedal-powered rickshaw puller at Janpath Market. “On average, we manage to persuade two-five individuals to visit the stores every day,” stated another near the Metro gate. Upon embarking on a rickshaw, the journalists were mildly startled as the driver diverted them to a shop in Qaiserbagh instead of adhering to the initially suggested route to Aminabad.
Furthermore, the driver made an unconventional request: he urged the journalists to feign serious interest in making purchases, even if they harbored no such intention. Upon reaching the shop, zealous staff members besieged the journalists with sales pitches. After enduring a few minutes of unrelenting persuasion, the journalists finally extricated themselves. With some insistence, they directed the driver to proceed to Aminabad, their original intended destination.
‘Factions’ of Old Lucknow
Similar to Hazratganj, the environs of Bada Imambara in Old Lucknow harbor a purported coalition of e-rickshaw drivers and chikan boutique owners. Most drivers were observed inquiring whether commuters intended to visit Chowk, an area renowned for its wholesale chikan market.
“Where do you want to go, Chowk chikan market?” they posed to one of the journalists exiting the monument’s gate, accompanied by a friend from Delhi. A simple affirmation prompted the “faction” to converge upon them. Instead of transporting them to the promised Charak Chauraha in Chowk, the driver steered them towards a narrow lane near Khunkhunji Marg, leaving them no choice but to explore one of the chikan shops in the absence of a viable road ahead.
“As soon as the ride concluded, the driver signaled another individual already present. This person trailed us, urging us to explore the chikan shops in the market,” recounted Shilpa Saha, the friend from Delhi.
“When I inquired about the location of the Chowk (wholesale) market, he insisted that this was it and led me to a purported factory where chikan garments could supposedly be obtained at the most economical prices. I followed suit. However, I noticed that the prices there mirrored those available online. An attendant hastily generated a receipt even without my confirmation of a purchase. Consequently, I had to make a hurried purchase to extricate myself,” narrated Saha, deeming her shopping experience in the city ‘dreadful.’